Tuesday, November 22, 2011

From Grahm Creek to Inlet Creek

This was a nice easy trip mainly because of the distance and the channel so straight, but I knew that another front was coming thru and I would have plenty of time to settle into Inlet creek. On the way down to the creek you can see the last bridge you have to go thru before entering Charleston harbor. It was very tempting to keep going, and after all wasn't I just going to Charleston? How much farther could the Charleston "City" boatyard be? Thank goodness I didn't - "City" ain't got anything to do with where that boatyard is! Arriving at the creek I turned right as if I was getting off the I95 checking the chart it looked like I had plenty of water for at least a half mile up.  I got to the mouth at about half tide with it coming in so I had to careful to anchor in the right place but with plenty of water showing on the charts no big deal Ha! The creek takes a lot of hard sharp bends so that you can't see whats around the corner until you get there. Well just around that first corner it had silted in to a bar that went half way across and where the only thing that could get thru would be a small outboard. So much for 12 to 15'!
I dropped the anchor 200' back from the bar in 8-10' with 60' of rode out, plenty for riding out a strong breeze - I hope. The creek at this point seemed about 100' wide so hopefully the breeze wouldn't shift so I would be up against the edge but what are you going to do?
 I had plenty of time before dark so went out for a row and by the time I got back the tide had come in enough to cover the bar. Boy if I had come in then I would have run right up on top of it without a clue! Down below I thought I would give Charleston a break tomorrow and took a shower. As I was drying my hair I heard a boat boat coming into the creek and popped my head up to see what it was. To my surprise a 40 footer went past me at about 5 knots with another 40 footer right behind him heading straight for what was now the hidden bar! I screamed at the top of my lungs and with that luckily the first boat heard me and came to a very impressive stop while the boat behind him had to not only slow dow but avoid hitting him.  It was almost comical. I yelled over that there was a hidden bar not fifty feet in front of him and he responded that he had been here before and didn't remember any bar.. Okay so I was really fibbing and just want to see you guys pile up on one another, what can I say I'm bored! They slowly came around and went towards the creek entrance to find a place to anchor. But the first guy slowed down and dropped his hook, backed down and I was astounded that when he finished his transom was directly over my anchor! I could spit and hit his boat. Now what do I do? Do I yell, Do I ask nicely, He was a big ugly guy in a big ugly pirate looking thing. Crap. So to review... I save this guy and his buddy from running up on a oyster encrusted sand bar at the top of the tide and no one say thanks, even a nod would have been nice, and then  Captain Jack Sparrow decides to park 40' in front of me, and all this with a front coming thru, thunder storms and all! Time for wine. Also, I have 60' of rode out. Whats going to happen when the wind shifts and he's behind me? If he doesn't have a lot of scope out we're going to be bunk buddies. I refuse to move - I was here first. More wine.
The suns going down and with the sky changing every minute its beautiful, and dramatic at the same time. I can only think here it comes. As the 6' tide recedes and Star drops ever so slowly I see less and less of the golden marshes, while the sides of the creek creep in towards the boats, how thin the creek gets only time  will tell. The boats have turned with the tide and Capt Long John realizing he's misjudged things brings in some of his scope, it's still not enough but better.
I wish I could say the rest of the night was dull, but alas it wasn't. The breeze came in and with it thunder storms with amazing amounts of rain. So much so, you couldn't see the boats behind me even though we were so cozy and close. The breeze shifted and with the tide going out at a good rate I found Star hardly moving and actually come to think of it she wasn't moving at all! I was hard aground, well in the mud, there was only one thing to do - I went to sleep. Star would have to figure it out for herself.
In the morning I was floating but the wind still had some strength to it. I sat with my tea and watch with some glee as the "gentleman" in front of me had to grind in his chain rode by hand, I swear he going to drop dead on deck at any moment, but he got it in and he and his buddy on the other boat raced off to catch the bridge and get a early start on the day. Once again with a bit of glee I knew that the bridge's first opening wasn't until 9:00 o'clock, it now being around 7:00 they were going to have to mill about for two solid hours - oh well!

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Yet another special place in the Chesapeake



From Mill Creek on the Great Wicomico River to Jackson Creek on the Piankatank River. The trip was 27 miles long. It took 6hrs. even, and the average speed was 4.5 knts. This was a great trip because I was able to sail the whole way. The breeze was out of the north with some pretty good swells. The boat really needs some type of centerboard or keel attached to what's already there, which is a big hunk of cast-iron about two feet deep giving me a total of three feet of draft. It will be great for the Bahamas but it's a little squirrelly when's there's a lump on the quarter-- not enough lateral resistance. But that being said I turned the corner at Stingray Point and the breeze had to of been steady 18-20 on the nose and the boat did fine. I went to the southern fork on the creek and dropped the hook. I wish everyone from the northeast could get chance to sail the Chesapeake there are some very special places and Jackson creek is one them. 

Friday, October 14, 2011

Just a 26' boat with an 8hp motor

     I went to a museum about the canal in the morning( pic). Decided to move on and get into the Bay proper. The day is warm with some thunder showers predicted. Get to the head of the bay here I am --yea! 
     Raise the main, breeze seems to be coming up. In less than 5 minutes I'm doing everything I can to get it down. Wind's dead on the nose and getting stronger by the minute. I am heading for a buoy and the boat's doing 2 knots. The seas are building because of the fetch; now I have every wave with a whitecap and the buoys are not getting any closer. A wall of white comes down on me and a couple of other boats. It takes the bow, pushes me sideways, and in doing so flattens the boat. Thank goodness for a big rudder. It spins around, stands up and there's no way to turn the boat around into the wind even if I wanted to. I'm going back. Nothing else to do.
     Back in the anchorage there's nothing that I can think of that I should have done differently, it's just a 26' boat with an 8hp motor. They are predicting gusts to 30 knts after the front comes through. Saturday will be a good day for updating the blog, going for a walk.......

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Faster than marsh grass

I woke early to calm, dark, foggy morning which seemed fitting for this place. The river was just starting to turn with the tide coming in and I knew I had to leave soon or it would be another day on the Cohansey. Cranked up the motor and headed down river. By the time I got to the mouth, the boat at almost full throttle was doing 1-1.5 knots.   The marsh grass could not be moving any slower.
     Breaking free of the river I headed to the channel to get out of all the crabtrap floats. Can't wrap anything around the shaft now can we? Visibility was 100 yds but the GPS kept coming through.
     By the hour the wind kept lifting and with the current helping and all sails set  I was at Reedy Island by10:30.  Wow the boat was doing between 6-7 knots. Why not go all the way to the canal?  Got to the start of the canal(pic) just as the tide turned in my favor. What a great day! Passing big ships and barges very cool. Pulled into Chesapeake City set the anchor and just sat and reflected how all sailing days should be just like that. Something tells me I'm going to pay for that last statement!

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Excuse me, do you have boxed tofu?


I woke stuck my head out the hatch and no palm trees! Just the chocolate colored Cohansey ripping by at a calm 4 knots. Today will be a lay day waiting for the weather to pass. A trip to the store to buy supplies and maybe a Cheeseburger!(pics).
     I went in to the supermarket with the same list I would use in CT, boxed tofu? You sell to the people not the idea. This was farm country and in places like this you have a large migrant worker population. So everything in the store revolved around a Mexican or South American diet. It was very cool.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

It doesn't look 40-feet deep!

Being anchored at the mouth of the Cohansey was not where I wanted to spend the time waiting out bad weather, so I decided to move the boat up the river to the town of Greenwich, which according to the book is a quaint little historic village. I was expecting something like Essex. Ha! 
     There were two broken down marinas, the current was amazing. I dropped the hook where recommended but it seemed I had to let out a lot of scope. It didn't feel right so I picked up and moved to the other side of the river. It was even deeper! What the heck-- this is a river that's not 50 yds wide, how deep could it be? 
     To make sure the hook was set I backed down.  I looked at the dinghy painter and said to myself I should pull that in. Nah. Two seconds later ...clunk and the engine stopped. Oh no! I looked back and there was the bow of the dinghy looking like it was trying to swim under the boat. Luckily the anchor was holding and there was only one other boat to witness this. I dove over with one of the great knives that Sue bought (Thank you!!!) and cut the line from the shaft. I needed a bath anyway.  
     When I went into the marina and bought diesel from the owner he mentioned bad weather was coming and would I like dock space? I declined.  Then he said "you know you're anchored in 40' of water and you're gonna need alot of scope if it blows the way they say it's gonna. It's a buck a foot, not much."  I said I'd let him know.
     I rowed out to the boat and barely made it with the current. So between that and the storm I thought two nights at 26.00 per night wasn't too bad to save another river disaster. Just for fun I measured the depth to see if was pulling my leg. He wasn't. It was 40' deep. And that's right next to the bank!  Being tied to that dock was a wonderful thing!

Monday, October 10, 2011

All was good.

Waking up in Cape May, pretty cool place but time to get into the mighty Delaware. Motoring through the canal was easy, very little current. At the west end there were three big ferries. Time to head north to the Cohansey. It took 9.75 hrs at an average speed of 3.9 knots. The trip was 39 miles long. It was a very long day!  But at the end, just as the sun was going down, I put the hook down amongst fellow cruisers and all was good.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Atlantic City to Cape May

Leaving from Atlantic City to Cape May was very exciting. The last leg of NJ(or so I thought). The trip was all motoring. Length was a record 44.2 mi. Time 9hr 26 min. Average speed 4 knots.  Not much to write about except getting into the inlet with the big sport fishing guys, they really don't care. Scary! Moved into the anchorage no room so went below the CG house and moored in 3' --seemed fine.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

4 more posts

Check out the September archive to read two new entries:
More Lessons Learned (sept 18)
I didn't want that stupid old centerboard anyway (sept 19)
And now in October:
Glimmer Glass and Wildlife
....and don't miss today's amazing photo of Atlantic City
Susan

Maggie Rogers and Susan are shown here in Mystic, talking about the adventures of Jim and Wandering Star.

Atlantic City aka Las Vegas East

From backwaters to the big city.  Atlantic City picks up the pace. 
















And saideth leteth there be gambling...

Friday, October 7, 2011

Leaving Barnegat Light

The trip through Barnegat Bay all the way down to Atlantic city was very cool. I went inside and would highly recommend it. The path takes you through small creeks that at low tide give me with 3' draft--some worries but I'd do it again. The whole trip was about 35 miles and was filled with a lot of bird life. The fun part at the end was that you come out of a tiny creek, turn left, and bam! there's Atlantic City. Quite something!  The only problem was the whole way through Barnegat Bay none of the buoys were marked on the chart because they are constantly shifting. Red right returning... at least I think so.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

(Update from Mystic)

I'm slowly catching up with the posts that Jim sends from his iPhone.  Tonight I added new posts for  September 14, 16, 17 and 25.  They are added on their original date, so the whole trip will be represented in proper order.   A few photos too!  Look for more this weekend, including our great sail from Stamford down the East River and over to Liberty Park, NJ.

Jim is currently in Barnegat Bay.

Susan

Glimmer Glass and wildlife

        Woke at 6am to get the small Glimmer Glass bridge out before dead low tide. The pic shows it really is the Tonka size version of the mystic bridge. Me in my big 26'ft boat barely fit thru even though this was a highly recommend anchorage in one of the guide books. The breeze had shifted into the north from the northwest so it blew along the coast and had built up a sizable swell. Making my way out of the inlet I was met by that swell and it was everything my little engine could do to keep me going forward.
     I have to say this now so with rock jetties on either side and a2-3 knot current pushing you along and a big swell(atleast for me) hitting you from the side you really have doubts if the boat's going to do it. All I could do was to stare at the buoy outside the harbor and steer. Stare and steer. Don't look to either side. Once I cleared the breakwaters I continued until I got to the outside buoy which was 3/4 of a mile out. I looked back a saw the swells crashing on the beach. If I never have to do that again, but I know I have a few more in store for this part of the trip.
     Turning right at the gong I started down the coast, engine going and genoa out.  I was doing between 6-7 knots! Man this boat is fast. The breeze had come up so I killed the engine raised the main and sail at not too less a speed.
     When I was a kid fishing with my dad we spent countless hours watching the surface of the water waiting for fish to come up. So I got to know what to look for and over to my left the water changed and the top of something had come and gone coming down from sandy hook I saw a lot of blues come up and jump completely clear of the water. But this seemed different. It was! There was a pod of dolphins and they turned toward the boat. Maybe ten, twenty black and not small but not flipper. They were saying hello and then poof they were gone. A good omen.
     Coming up on and going thru the Barnegat inlet could take a whole entry, suffice to say it was a lot tougher than going out puny Manasquan. Alan Banister would have loved it.   Guys were anchored right next-- and I mean right next-- to rocks with these big rollers crashing right there. I think I bent one of the bimini supports because I was holding on so tight and these guys are out fishing! If I never have to......
     I finally get into calm water and look around and it's beautiful. For the first time in three weeks I really feel I somewhere else. The sand is a light grey/ white with islands and no houses on them. I move into a small cove and there are mooring balls. What could be better?  I flopped down on the jib bag and didn't move for two hrs. I also forgot to tell about half way to Barneget a little sparrow flew under the dodger and stayed there for about 15 min we had a very nice conversation and then he flew off for the beach which was about a mile away.
     So Barneget Bay is N 39•45'  W074•07'. The water temp is and is really clean the weather is north and beautiful.  Now off to Atlantic city or about half way there

Saturday, October 1, 2011

The legendary East River passage

An early morning start on October 1.  Goal: LI Sound to the East River and Liberty Park, NJ.  We covered 39 miles averaging 5.1 knots, with a maximum of 9.7 knots (with current-assist).  The trip took 7 hours, 45 minutes and was one of those memorable days when one is fully absorbed in the tasks at hand and the passing of time goes unnoticed.  Lots of traffic on the river and harbor--party fishing boats, tankers, tugs, barges, police and fire boats, one-design racing boats, tourist boats, ferries, container ships, schooners, sloops, kayaks, powerboats, and even a swimmer!
Jim at the helm out of Stamford
 
Susan at the helm in Long Island Sound
Execution Rock
Whitestone Bridge, accompanied by a tanker

East River looking toward Manhattan

No time for lunch (note pb&j sandwich in left hand) as the river traffic is getting busy

Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges

NYFD Boat--powerful!!

Add caption

Schooner, Ferry, City




Sunday, September 25, 2011

Is this anyway to start a voyage?

     Thursday morning I woke and was a little stiff from the sail the day before but also the boat spent most of it's time broadside to the swells due to the current. Lots of bumpy and rock 'n rolling. But nothing for an experienced voyager like myself. Getting the anchor up was no big deal except I forgot that the helm was locked midship and the was full and all those pretty rocks were coming on fast. Luckily I got to the helm in time and made a great escape.
     The sail from Long ledge to the mouth of the CT river was another good one but it was getting pretty warm and humid-- I thought this was fall?  The night before there were some thunder storms but far enough north that all I saw was some lightning far away a didn't think anything of it. At the the mouth of the river the current and waves were bit confused but once inside the breakwaters it was smooth as glass and with the tide bringing me up the river we made it up the river to Essex in short order.
     The river is really very beautiful and has always amazed me that it didn't end up like the Thames in New London. John Lewis at Fort Rachel was kind enough to give me some great local knowledge of the river and Essex which really helped me out. Being the socialite that I am I decided to sneak up a little creek behind Nott island which is directly across from Essex. Certainly it would be an easy row over to go visit with Nancy. Since I had made such good time and it was so warm maybe a swim was in order after the hook went down.
     I slowly made my way up the creek to a point where there was a smaller boat than mine;  definitely time turn around. Clearly this was some poor guy trying to keep a boat ( under the wire) to avoid mooring fees etc. I also noticed that all he had was a small anchor line and probably not much on the other end of it. A concern if you're down current and weather. I turned the boat against the the current which was still coming up river and since there was no wind putting the hook down was easy. I slowed the boat and put it neutral she slowly came to a stop. 
     I very confidently went up and slowly let down my 22lb plow and at least 60' of 5/16"chain. All this is major overkill considering the boat is only 26' long and the depth could not have been more than 12-15 deep. With the hook down I went back aft and backed down on it to really set it in to the mud. Because it's chain and the engine's so small sometimes it's hard to tell but no boggy here the weight of the chain alone would hold it. It was really muggy and hot so I thought that maybe I'd put up the awning but decided to go for a swim first. After all hadn't I earned it by successfully navigating all the way from Niantic.
     The swim was wonderful because the tide was coming in I felt like I was swimming in a lake. Once done with the dip while cleaning up the boat there were two squalls that came through-- no rain but lots of wind quick short bursts. Again no problem with my gear but was concerned about the guy north of me. Luckily I had scrapped the idea of the awning because I could of had a mess on my hands. The skies cleared as quickly as it came and I settled down with a beer and the rather large decision of what to have for dinner.

Huntington Bay

     Woke up and thought some new scenery would be important. So after breakfast I hauled up the anchor and since there wasn't any breeze and I needed to charge up the batteries I motored over to Northport Harbor, the easternmost harbor in  Huntington Bay. There were tons of boats almost as many as Marblehead but not quite. I was a little bummed because the town from the water really looked very pretty with a lot of Victorian homes that have been fixed up to the max but the original design staying the same. Very different then all the mansions I've seen so far - all very beautiful but how much money and where did it all come from!? No matter it all keeps guys like me busy.
     I left Northport because if I stopped at the town dock it would of cost 3.50 per ft whether you stay overnight or not.  I motored back west some to a sandpit not unlike Sandy Point and dropped the hook next to an island that lies 100 yds off the spit. All of a sudden two guys show up on the island with a gas powered compresser and start drilling into the old concrete foundation that's there.  I can't figure it out for the life of me, this went on all afternoon, you can imagine the noise, plus it really didn't look like they got anything done--oh well. I finally took the old name off,  so now it's officially Wandering Star. She is who she is!  Sue I got that light to work so now people can see the boat at night. Well another beautiful sunset it's off to some rice and beans.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Three photos from the first week: Black Rock, New Haven and on board

 8:45 a.m 9/18/11  All's well aboard Wandering Star!
 New Haven, CT 9/18/11
Black Rock Harbor.   9/18/11
This is a pic of the black rock yacht club who are very nice to let me on one of their moorings actually they don't know it yet. The club is all boarded up from the storm and the dock got destroyed so they'll never know.....right?

Monday, September 19, 2011

I didn't want that stupid old centerboard anyway

    After clearing New Haven, the sail down to Fairfield seemed effortless.  A nice broad reach with the vane doing the work, I was able to sit and figure out how I was going to keep myself out of these jams. As I reached Bridgeport harbor naturally a huge ferry was coming in and it seemed we were on a collision course. I furled then jib, unhooked the vane and just ghosted along while he passed.
     Then my phone rang and it was Andy, the young man who worked with me in my shop. It was great to hear his voice, and his news was that they had a baby boy and all was ok in the world. Isn't that all any of us want?
     I continued to Black Rock where I picked up a mooring from the yacht club( ok, well, I really didn't tell them but I was going to if they asked, of course). To be on the mooring was a huge relief.  I just needed one night to not worry about whether I was going to end up on the rocks or into somebody's boat. The first thing I did was to go over the side to inspect the board. I got my mask and very slowly went in-- it was cold!  I got to the aft edge of the board and thankfully it didn't look damaged. I came back up for air and went down to further check it out. Actually it was to check them both out! It looked like Jaws had taken a giant bite out of the board, and 3/4 of the way forward it was completely busted from the other 1/4. 
     Somehow in New Haven, when I raise the board it came back up into the slot perfectly. But now, there was nothing else to do but lower it and cut away. (I thought about bringing it up and taking pictures but thought what a nasty way to get hurt.) So no risks, just cut it. And that's what I did. I didn't want that stupid old centerboard anyway. So now I have this little piece that pivots on the pin busted and raw. It's going to make some great fish story in a bar after they haul it somewhere. "Like I said boys that shark was longer than this here bar, and he was a might bit angry........"

Sunday, September 18, 2011

More lessons learned

     I woke really early, like 5am, because I swear the boat was aground in the middle of the night. I may have gone in too far towards the breakwaters but in the light breeze when I first got there it all seemed good. But the the breeze changed and I found myself in thin water.   Oh well I'll just beach the boat from now on instead of anchoring-- it's such a nuisance anyway.
     It was actually blowing a pretty stiff breeze for that early in the morning but it was east north east so I would have a reach the whole way. Can't beat that, so I raised the anchor with it's line rode(it's so much easier now)put it all away and bore off for  parts west. Because the breeze was so steady I thought would be a good time to set up the wind vane, I certainly didn't want to steer the whole way. (Note to self do this setting up thing when the boat is at anchor not while its rocking all over the place with a good breeze behind me.) I got it all set up.
     It's important to note here that anytime I'm on the boat and it's moving thru the water I have a safety harness on and am clipped in at all times. If I can swim around the boat five times and be pretty tired after that, I wouldn't stand much of a chance in the middle of the sound.
     Now the boat was steering herself and keeping a really good course I could relax, figure out where I was going. I decided to stay along the shore and jump from buoy to buoy. This would be more interesting than going out in to the middle of the sound and just sailing. There would be some navigating to do as well as some sight seeing. Because I was on a reach with the seas on my quarter the boat had a good chance to sail to hull speed which it did for a long time.
     We made great time and before I new it we past Clinton and the sun was just starting to rise. The waves and sky were a platinum steel grey and it wasn't warm so I was happy to see that sun was going to make a showing today. We barreled along with the self steering doing all the work I was just a passenger sitting in my favorite spot in the companionway just looking. That's all-- just looking. The breeze picked up some more so I got out my lazy seat went forward to the mast and put a reef in the main. This might slow me down a little but it makes it more comfortable for the boat and the windvane. It's times like that I'm happy to have a nice simple little 26' boat.
     With the breeze up the waves were getting some what bigger but because of the angle the boat was sailing it was still ok. Dead down wind would have been not so much fun. But this? This was fun!  Out to the left was Falkner Island I swear it looks like a piece of Scotland in our own backyard. This chunk of rock with a tower for a light house - if they ever decide to sell that one I might get in line. On my right were the Thimble Islands with some very old established houses that you know have been families for generations. I now this isn't going to be the last time I say this but Man is there a lot of money in this part of the country!
     The breeze and the seas are holding steady but I start to note that as the sun climbs higher the breeze is just starting to back into the a bit and with that I bet a change. Nothing ever stays the same out here. My thoughts turn to maybe let's skip New Haven and just continue on down to Fairfield,  I was making such good time it will only be 1:00 by the time I get to the NH area. The wind heard me and as time went by it started to soften a bit then come back up but with each change it got lighter and less steady. Although this didn't seem to bother the waves. They actually seemed to like it to the point were they came closer together just to mix things up a bit. The poor windvane didn't quite know what to do between the wind going up and down in strength and the seas getting really sloppy.
     Just as I was about to disconnect the vane the boat came up into the wind and slid or I should say fell off a wave at just the wrong time and angle. The next thing I know I'm holding on so I don't go from one side of the boat to other thru the air when I hear a bang and then another really big bang. The boat straightened up i gathered my wits unhooked the vane and continued on to NH steering the rest of the way. Getting closer to the city I was getting pretty tired and had remembered that all I had for food was a pb&j before I left DI. Maybe the prudent thing to do would be to stop. So that's what decided to do. I also had to figure out what those two loud bangs were.
     I had the choice of three giant break waters.  Luckily the first one offered the best protection from the east south easterly swell. I ran around and anchored in 15 ft. I cleaned up the boat and set everything up so that in the middle of the night something happen the boat would be prepared. The boat probably not the owner. It was nice to be behind this big wall of rock, I certainly would not be on the other side! 
     To try and figure out what the bangs were the first thing that came to mind was the board maybe it let go finally and slammed up against the forward end of the trunk that must have been it. I went to see if that were true by taking the line and letting the board down. Holy cow it was free so I let it down and down and down. I immediately pulled it back up and heard this horrible crunching sound that only fiberglass can make.  I had no idea but really didn't want to know.
   So the best course of action, since by then it was late afternoon, was to open a beer and think of more pleasant thoughts like the sail to Fairfield and maybe seeing some old friends. I would dive under the boat in the morning when it was what calmer?warmer? Give me a break !
     The next morning was another very important lesson in the way few are. I woke with the boat maybe 75yds off that big breakwater with the wind now blowing north by north east and I had the entire fetch of New Haven harbor coming down on me. The heck with what ever was going on down below the boat I had to get out of there but I really didn't know how.  I had to go forward and pull up the anchor rode then get the section of chain up run back in time so I didn't  get slammed into the rocks. No way I put myself in a real spot.
     The logical thing to do was to hold tight and stay there till the wind either changed or dropped. But if in that time the anchor let go (gee has that ever happened?) I'd really be in a mess couldn't even walk home from that one. I had to be in control of the boat at all times so I couldn't leave the helm for a minute. I went forward and led the bitter end of the rode aft thru two blocks and then to the starboard sheet winch. Started the engine and at about that same time I pretty much wanted to puke.
     The breakwater was really close, this had to work. Not even enough time to think about golf!  I put the engine in gear and slowly inched my way forward and winched the rode in. Because of the breeze and the waves the had a tough time following the rode. I got all the line part in but the chain still hung there and kept us connected to the earth.   I gave some more gas, connected the autohelm, and went forward to muscle the chain. Much to my surprise the boat broke out the anchor while I was going forward and the autohelm was steering me clear and away from the jetty. I basically just stood there and let the boat take care of itself which is a heck of a lot more than I did.
     I should have listened to the weather and found a different anchorage. This was a mistake a big one that couldn't happen again. This was not a little mud to pull myself off of, this was big mean rocks and really once again could of sent me home. So it was off to Fairfield and once again a nice blustery reach to get us there quickly.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Lunch with Nancy

    Got an early start just being exited to continue the cruise. I left the creek very carefully staying in the absolute center of the channel. The tide was in my favor seeing it was early morning so getting down the river was as pleasant as going up. On the way down I tried the centerboard but it was still stuck the only time it worked was right after painting the bottom now it won't go up or down.
     The breeze slowly died on the way over to Duck Island so I started the engine and slowly made my way over to Westbrook. The batteries needed charging anyway(at least that's what I tell myself). Duck Island has a wonderful right angle breakwater with an island at the elbow. You're protected from anything but the north but then you could just sneak around the backside. I rowed in to the town dock met with Nancy and had the best tasting roastbeef grinder ever. Remember this is a rice and beans project!  She also gave me Chips Ahoy cookies(no pun intended I'm sure), and animal crackers that I have not had for ever. Did I mention the beer?
     While sitting on the dock enjoying lunch I noticed the sky had changed and there was bit more breeze. I felt bad but I knew I had to go. It would be a good row back out in calm weather but this was going to be some more work. I got lucky because between the breeze piping up and all the powerboat guys coming back in with there wakes it was a tough row and Star just didn't seem to be getting any closer. I kept at it, didn't want to sleep on the beach that night and slowly closed on it. Note to self - small outboard someday. A great sunset with the cloud formations.
     Next stop New Haven.

Friday, September 16, 2011

Friday, September 16: There is still a trip.

    Waking up and feeling refreshed actually I was because now there was still a trip. Imagine having to face coming back after two days! 
     The big project for the day was to get the rudder back on which I knew wasn't going to be easy. I was amazed at how heavy the thing was. I undid it from the winch and having a line already going aft I let it once again sink down so I could bring it up into a good position aft. I had taken the tiller off thinking that the trip act would be easier without it. Which worked well.
     Now all I had to do was raise it enough to let it just fall back into it's fittings. I set up a block and tackle from the backstay and led it to the starboard winch. It really did take this much to raise it. Because the boat was on anchor it was swinging back and forth with the current plus the rudder had a mind of it's own as to where it wanted to go. After fighting with it for a half hour I finally figured out that if I put the tiller back on it might give me some leverage. Luckily the top pintle had to go in first. Finally I got it to at least start to go in. The problem was the bottom pintle had gotten bent and wouldn't go down the whole way. I was just going to have to live with that. The rest of the day all I could do was clean up and hangout. There was no way I was going to leave the boat and row over to see Nancy.   I called her and we agreed to meet in Westbrook the next day. Because the front had come thru there was a beautiful sunset and a really good tasting beer(or two).

The Calm After the Storm

   Waking up and feeling refreshed because now there was still a trip. Imagine having to face coming back after two days! 
     The big project for the day was to get the rudder back on which I knew wasn't going to be easy. I was amazed at how heavy the thing was. I undid it from the winch and having a line already going aft I let it once again sink down so I could bring it up into a good position aft. I had taken the tiller off thinking that the trip actually would be easier without it. Which worked well. Now all I had to do was raise it enough to let it just fall back into it's fittings. I set up a block and tackle from the backstay and led it to the starboard winch. It really did take this much to raise it. Because the boat was on anchor it was swinging back and forth with the current plus the rudder had a mind of it's own as to where it wanted to go. After fighting with it for a half hour I finally figured out that if I put the tiller back on it might give me some leverage. Luckly the top pintle had to go in first. Finally I got it to at least start to go in. The problem was the bottom pintle had gotten bent and wouldn't go down the hole way. I was just going to have to live with that.
     The rest of the day all I could do was clean up and hangout. There was no way I was going to leave the boat and row over to see Nancy   I called her and we agreed to meet in Westbrook the next day. Because the front had come thru there was a beautiful sunset and a really good tasting beer(or two).

Thursday, September 15, 2011

Is this anyway to start a voyage?

     Thursday morning I woke and was a little stiff from the sail the day before but also the boat spent most of it's time broadside to the swells due to the current. Lots of bumpy and rock 'n rolling. But nothing for an experienced voyager like myself. Getting the anchor up was no big deal except I forgot that the helm was locked midship and the was full and all those pretty rocks were coming on fast. Luckily I got to the helm in time and made a great escape.
     The sail from Long ledge to the mouth of the CT river was another good one but it was getting pretty warm and humid-- I thought this was fall?  The night before there were some thunder storms but far enough north that all I saw was some lightning far away and didn't think anything of it. At the the mouth of the river the current and waves were bit confused but once inside the breakwaters it was smooth as glass and with the tide bringing me up the river we made it up the river to Essex in short order.
     The river is really very beautiful and has always amazed me that it didn't end up like the Thames in New London. John Lewis at Fort Rachel was kind enough to give me some great local knowledge of the river and Essex which really helped me out. Being the socialite that I am I decided to sneak up a little creek behind Nott island which is directly across from Essex. Certainly it would be an easy row over to go visit with Nancy.
     Since I had made such good time and it was so warm maybe a swim was in order after the hook went down. I slowly made my way up the creek to a point were there was a smaller boat than mine; definitely time turn around. Clearly this was some poor guy  trying to keep a boat ( under the wire) to avoid mooring fees etc. I also noticed that all he had was a small anchor line and probably not much on the other end of it. A concern if you're down current and weather.
     I turned the boat against the the current which was still coming up river and since there was no wind putting the hook down was easy. I slowed the boat and put it neutral she slowly came to a stop.  I very confidently went up and slowly let down my 22lb plow and at least 60' of 5/16"chain. All this is major overkill considering the boat is only 26' long and the depth could not have been more than 12-15 deep. With the hook down I went back aft and backed down on it to really set it in to the mud. Because it's chain and the engines so small sometimes it's hard to tell but no boggy here the weight of the chain alone would hold it.
     It was really muggy and hot so I thought that maybe I'd put up the awning but decided to go for a swim first. After all hadn't I earned it by successfully navigating all the way from Niantic. The swim was wonderful because the tide was coming in I felt like I was swimming in a lake. Once done with the dip while cleaning up the boat there were two squalls that came through-- no rain but lots of wind quick short bursts. Again no problem with my gear but was concerned about the guy north of me. Luckily I had scrapped the idea of the awning because I could have had a mess on my hands. The skies cleared as quickly as it came and I settled down with a beer and the rather large decision of what to have for dinner.

Day 2,  Part 2:  Dinner and...

     Dinner? Good question,,, maybe something simple. A can of chili is selected from the menus and heated up on the stove that never fails. After dinner I sit back on the port bunk and start my first journal entry, not something that comes easy, but there's been a couple of beers how hard could it be?     
     It's blowing really hard now and I've insulated myself from it in the cabin. I've noticed the boat is really starting to swing-- well to be more correct "sail" from one side of the creek to the other. I pop my head out and get a surprise-- there's whitecaps smoking down the creek. How could this be?  It's really blowing but still no big deal I have chain lest we not forget.
     I go back to the bunk and as I look thru the companionway I notice as we slide over to the east side I can see three trees. This goes on for while and tend to lose interest. I don't think I've experienced quite this much wind on a boat even though I'm in a really small creek. All of a sudden there's a large BANG and I have no idea what it is. 
     There's enough noise from the wind I figured something that came down the river after the tide had changed. That's right I thought not only is there all this wind but we've got all the water coming from Vermont trying to get to the sound,   What are the chances?  Wasn't I just swimming a couple of hours ago and contemplating putting up the awning? Why hadn't I take five minutes to listen to the weather?  Even if I had would I have done anything like what put out second anchlor? There's barely enough room for one. It's literally blowing a gale right here in this  creek. Damn it!
     Then I notice as I look up--my trees aren't there when we skid to that side of the creek.   Uh where my trees, my friends that are telling me where we're suppose to be each time the boat.. Then I notice were not sliding back to the otherside and we havent started heeling to other tack. I don't get it.  Then the impossible hits me.
     It can't be.  It's to big of a thing to happen. I have trouble getting out of the bunk because the boat's over on her ear right now. She's laying down on her portside and isn't moving. I reach the companionway fly up the steps only find my worst fears. I can see the marsh grass against the transom. The rudder locked in place with the line we tie around the tiller to keeping it in place and with every blast of wind and wave charging down this stupid little creek tries to lift my next six months and throw it up on to the marsh.
     And with every lift the tiller doing what it's doing the forces on the rudder are huge. It's holding the back of the boat up for that short time each wave each blast.  Why won't it let up just for one minute? I move aft and look at the transom it's flexing at both places where the rudder is connected. There's no way this is going to last. Either the rudder, which is a big strong thing, is going to rip off its fittings or it will keep its fittings and sections of the transom are just just going to be pulled off the back of the boat.
     I reach for the motor controls at the the all you do is hope. I start the engine thank god, put in gear and full throttle but of course the boat won't budge. The only thing I can think to do next is to try and relieve the pressure on the rudder. I untie the line holding it place and try to work the tiller.  It's deep in the mud by this time and won't move. Between that and the wind and waves I grab the tiller since all is lost at this point and work it back and forth an inch this way an inch that way I'm pissed I'm so pissed second night out and I lose my boat by going aground up a creek. The rudder's moving a little more each time I jerk it back and forth. All I want go do is dig a hole with it to take some of the pressure off. It's working some but now it starts to rain and I'm in tee shirt and shorts.
     I then do this weird thing and tell myself I'm not going to get wet. I go down below and it's raining on the radio so I get the boards put them place and close the hatch. All of a sudden a real big calm came over me. I thought to myself that if I was that worried about getting the radio wet, I wasn't about to give up. I was going to calm down a look at this as I would any other project.
     I was at the begining and there would be an end. Plus I was going to fix this myself no help from anyone --isn't that what this thing is about anyway. It was time to go to work. I slide the hatch open and saw the sky was starting to breakup.  I could see stars but it was still blowing and the creek seas were still running. I looked up into the creek and saw that the little boat that I was so worried about hitting my boat was swinging just fine where he was. I was happy for him.
     Going back aft. I work the tiller some more not knowing if it is doing any good when it hit me.  Take the rudder off, all I have to do is pull the cotter pins. How hard could that be? There's so much stuff aft on this boat the only way to get at the pins would be from the dinghy. I went below and got into sneakers wool socks long pants wool sweater raincoat and dinghy life jacket and the most important tool of the evening my headlamp that Sue bought for me at REI.  Without it I could not have done what I needed to do.

Day 2, Part 3:  The Dinghy 

        
     I now had to find the dinghy.  Hopefully it wasn't on the weather side getting beat up. I'd been so wrapped up in the moment I hadn't even noticed if there even was a dinghy anymore. I looked around and found it hiding under the port quarter like some scared little kid hiding behind his mother's skirt.  I don't blame it that's where I'd be.
     The next step is to get the boat off the mud at any cost before the rudder really rips half the transom off. My first thought was to find the anchor, carry it out in the dinghy, set in mid channel and use the windlass to pull us off. How hard could it be?  By now it's about 11:30 and the wind is still howling but not as bad and I now know that I have until high tide at 1:30.  Anything after that and the tide will go screaming down the river, especially with the wind pushing it all down river and I'll lose my chance.
     I climb down into the dinghy, untie it and find my way to the bow of Star. The plan is to grab the chain, follow it to the anchor, once there lift up into the dinghy and work my way back to the boat while loading the chain in so I can then row out and reset it. I grab the chain and something inside me says this may not be as easy as I thought. I start to pull the dinghy along the chain but the dinghy goes sideways to the chain and the breeze. Breeze is such a nice word. I know what I have to do and look down at the dinghy and feel sorry for it because for the next few hours it's going to get ugly.
     I turn the dinghys stern to the chain and drape the chain over the transom and start pulling. The chain rides on the top edge of the fiberglass and immediately wears notches in it. I think that later these will be proud battle scars. This is really hard the chain is heavy and I haven't even gotten to the point of getting it into the dinghy. I finally reach the anchor so I hope that it isn't the chain just stuck on a log and pull with all my might which again by this point ain't much.
     The anchor comes up to the transom.  I get on my knees in the transom and between me and the weight of the anchor the water is pouring in.  Did I mention the wind? The anchor came on board, now I had to bring all the chain in as I followed it back to the boat. Once again it had to come over the transom but the dinghy held tough and I got all in.
     Being near Star all I had to do now is row the anchor out while feeding the chain over the transom as we went. Rowing against the wind would have been tough enough but with the weight of chain and anchor it was almost comical. I started rowing out, a little chain would go over and hit the bottom and I was immediately stopped. How was this going to work? All I could do was try so I rowed as hard as I could and boy that chain sure went over the transom.   Talk about momentum--to stop it from all going over in a pile I slammed my foot against it which for a moment I thought might work.
     I rowed.  I swear I rowed like I never have before, and right in the middle of it all  I start thinking Golf. They don't do stuff like this they don't even go out in the rain. And on top of it all they got that Hager double-knit pant thing going on. I could deal with that. My foot slips and all the chain runs away from me. I'm sitting there exhausted with an anchor but a pile of chain underneath the dinghy.      
     This isn't going to work. I row the anchor back to the boat trying to pull the chain as we go. Back at the boat I climb on board to find the tiller at a sickening angle as if it were a broken arm, you know like the one in Deliverence. Either the rudder finally ripped out of the transom and the boat was filling with river water or it slipped out of its fittings. I really didn't want to go look but had to.
     I leaned over the transom and saw that it had slipped its fittings. Yea rah! Half the battle was now over. The boat's not broken, there's still hope. I tied a line around the top pintle and led it around all the stuff forward to a winch. I then took the tiller which was jammed and was keeping the rudder from sinking and pushed it through the stainless bars at the same time taking a chunk of the tiller with it. It sunk a far as it could considering the depth and I brought it around to the side of the boat with the winch. I then took the mainsheet, undid it at the traveler and connected it to the upper pintle. Raising as high as I could get it I new it would be safe while I worked on getting the boat out of the mud no sweat!
  
Day 2, Part 4:  A Tale of Two Anchors

  I knew now I needed to put out another anchor but with a rope rode that I could handle. I got out the big danforth that came with the boat and the rode that I used with the plow. Only problem was I didn't have a big enough shackle to join the two together. But then I remembered that there was a small danforth and rode that the past owner must of used as a lunch hook not big enough to help tonight but maybe it had the shackle we needed.
     It was buried under everything, some of this stuff I didn't know existed. Getting down to it I finally found that it had a small section of chain connected to it. The chain had been painted white by some very patient sole. And at the end of that chain was a huge shackle that could of held the Queen Mary. Just what I needed.
     I joined the two, connected the bitter end to the bow and carefully coiled down the rode. What I didn't need right now was 150 feet of old dried warp to turn into a rats nest. I got the rode and anchor into the dinghy set it up so it would flake out as I rowed out. I started to row out against the wind and waves which by this time had gone down some but it was still going to be quite a chore. By now it was about 12:30 and was really getting quite tuckered out.
     All I could was row out as best I could but the wind had veered more into the west and kept me pinned along the shore. At this point I didn't care, I was making progress away from the boat and the rode was running out smoothly though as more ran out it was getting harder to row.
     As looked back at Star I noticed that the rode was creating this really beautiful curve from her to me. I figured if I was thinking about that kind of stuff things must be looking up. I finally came to the end of my rode and dropped the anchor being careful not to tangle it up. Rowing back to the boat I was anxious to see if this was going to work.
     I was about at high tide-- let's hope the stars are aligned(no pun intended). Climbing up from the dinghy on the leeward side around the tiller and rudder I went forward and brought the rode aft to a cockpit winch took four wraps put in the handle, took a deep breath cause I new this wasn't going to be easy and started to grind. Within three full turns of the handle Star slipped off the mud and into deeper water as if she were on rollers. How anticlimactic. That's ok I'll take it.
     I still had to move her out into the creek more.  Even though she was floating she was still being blown in to close to the shore and now with the tide going out it was crucial to get her out there. I knew I wasn't going to be able to use the plow and chain and I couldn't motor out without a rudder so I decided to set up the plow with the length of chain that I used to use with the old warp which was about 30' a manageable amount. I had a brand new warp I on board still in the box all I had to do was cut thru link that would leave me with the thirty feet and join the new warp to it. I took out the vise I brought and my hack saw and went to work. What? You say you don't carry your own vise onboard (smartass). I cut thru the link and went to join the two together and had to steal the second shackle from the the small anchor.
     Now, all I had to do was very carefully uncoil the line in a counter clockwise way so the the 200' of line wouldn't get tangle and knot up. Anybody who has done this knows exactly what happens no matter how careful you are. One hour later I have the plow anchor out with the full length of 30' of chain and 200' of untangled 1/2" rode into the center of the creek. I pull her out on that and rides very nicely in the creek were she should be. It's about 2:30 I go down below and crash into my bunk. But wait there's more! Remember the bang?.........

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

A Great Start to a Voyage

Wednesday morning I woke to a sunny day with a breeze of 10-15 out of the southwest. Had a great breakfast and made my way down the river. With the full main and genny I was able to make my way past Groton Long Point and on to New London. Bartlett Reef was the next one to tick off then on to Black Point just west of Niantic bay. As I entered the bay the breeze began to lighten and very slowly tacked my way out. On the way out I spotted some empty moorings but since it was still afternoon I elected to continue on. Just on the other side of Black point there are group of rocks and a small island that I thought look like a great place to stay for the night. The anchor went down without a hitch and soon I was watching a sunset with a beer in hand. Ah the cruising life - what could be more simple?

Thursday, March 17, 2011

A view from Wandering Star, March 2011, Mystic, CT

     16 degrees "Bone crackling cold" Wyeth called it.  As I stand on the dock trying to see thru my breath I notice two inches of solid ice around her waterline, not enough to do any real damage.  Maybe with some wind it will scour the crap off that's grown since summer, anything growing below reaches down with its longing to be with it's brethren on the sea floor so close to home, yet...
     Her deck  covered in hoar frost looks like a sparkling carpet in the early morning light.  I grab a shroud and swing myself on board being aware its surface is like black ice, one wrong step and the voyage could be over before it begins.  My weight on the deck makes the frozen fiberglass creak and snap, no warm grunts and groans like a teak or yellow pine deck laid over oak that says "it's ok to step here I'll give you a little."
     But the frost will all melt away with the later morning sun only to reveal a grimy sooty deck left from the yard lot and railroad tracks fifty feel away.  If there's only two things I know it's one--women belong everywhere except the front line of a battlefield and two--a boat, a real boat doesn't belong tied to the land.  Either just ain't natural.
     I let go my death grip from the shroud and work my way aft to the cockpit. Once there I stand with tiller between my legs (knowing this would be a really uncomfortable time to slip) and gazed forward where it hits me as it's done so many times before. I'm really going to do this.
     My mind drifts back to too many years ago as a bored kid watching TV, and glancing up at the bookshelf above, four old tobacco-stained cotton bound books from before the war standing together like some forgotten soldiers in a rest home waiting for someone, anyone to come by and ask about the story they have to tell. 
     SEVEN SEAS ON A SHOESTRING, IN QUEST OF THE SUN, HURRICANE'S WAKE, 10,000 LEAGUES OVER THE SEA.  Long, Kauffman, Robinson, Gerbault.  Who were these guys, and what did they do?  At that seminal moment I stood, reached for one of the books and dropping down into the broken-down couch opened what for me would become a life-long dream.  Who knew?


Lists, unlike life and bank accounts, never seem to get either shorter of smaller.  But in the end what must prevail, being based on sound financial calculations and ruthless emotional disconnect is a group of planned directives that will not only achieve the desired end results to the highest standard but will also be one in such a timely  manner that the participants in these deeds will be caught off guard with time on their hands.